We start the construction of square layers with the line technique. The line can be triangular or square. The back view shows how to separate the main section. The back of the head is divided in two equal parts by the black-colored section. Then we separate additional blue-colored sections. The incline of the section corresponds to the cheekbone slope. It is a physiological incline that goes down from the horizon. It is a slight incline that copies the cheekbone slope. The next section mirrors the previous one. We move with parallel sections as far as the top of the ear. From the top of the ear we start to turn the sections pivotally. The pivoting rotation goes as far as the vertical section that will be shown at the side view. The red arrows show the over-direction into the expanded shape. The expanded shape is shown with the green pecked line.
The red pecked arrow shows the over-direction of the sections into the cutting angle. They are directed to the green pecked line which shows the expanded shape. We can also see the range of lengths. The shortest length is two centimeters from the edge of hair growth. If the hair is thin you can start from the very edge of hair growth. We never build this design at the level of the shoulder. We construct it below the shoulder. If you construct the line at the level of the shoulder, it will break against it and the dynamics will be wrong. The external part of the design will bump into the shoulder and turn. That is why we never build lines at shoulder level. Remember that they are always constructed above or below the shoulder.
Our next shape is square layer. Square layer is cut from the edge of hair growth to the seventh vertebra cervical. Look carefully at the mannequin; you will see how it is done – from the edge of hair growth to the seventh vertebra cervical. Here we have square graduation. So we will evolve from square graduation into square layer. If you want to build square layer on long hair, you should first build a line. The line technique is always built before going over to the construction of square layer. It is crucial if you want to build a correct geometry with an accurate silhouette. It can be a square line.
But here we have a triangular line. A square line would have a silhouette like this, and a round line – a silhouette like this. If you have a silhouette of a round geometry on a length like this one, it is better not to build square layer. It won’t have correct dynamics. But in case of square or triangular geometry you can easily build square layer. You have to evaluate the material you are working with. If you see short lengths on the top of the head and in the facial area, then again you should not build square layer, it won’t work out well. In this case I recommend choosing another design. If after the evaluation of the length you see that it is adequate for building square layer both in the external and the internal parts of the shape, than go for it!