Matrix 9 - Combinations

Square graduation round layers



You can see on the diagram that the construction of the shape starts with separation of the main central section that divides the shape in two equal parts. Then we separate the first additional section that starts from the edge of hair growth. Its incline corresponds to the cheekbone slope. We cut the first section according to line technique. The red arrow shows the over-direction of the line into the expanded shape. The green pecked line shows the expanded shape. The next additional section is parallel to the previous one. The red arrow again shows the over-direction into the expanded shape. It is shown with the green pecked line. The third section is also cut according to line technique. The additional section is parallel to the previous one. The section is directed towards the green pecked line, it forms a line.

Then we separate the next section in parallel with the previous one and we proceed in this way. Each section is parallel to the previous one. The rest of the sections are directed into the expanded shape of the line but with elevation. The elevation depends on the texture. If the hair is thick, the elevation can be quite high, up to 90 degrees. If the hair density is not enough to control the outline, the elevation can be minimal. We can also see the range of lengths. The length ranges from the edge of hair growth to the seventh cervical vertebra. The length also depends on the texture. The thinner is the hair, the shorter is the design. The thicker is the hair, the longer is the design. The hair can reach the seventh neck vertebra. The design should not be longer than the seventh vertebra. It won’t be functional. The weight will drop. That is why we don’t build square graduation on long hair.

Video Tutorial


Why do we need to combine square graduation or any other type of graduation with layers? When we build a graduation in its pure form, the natural parting is very important. In this case it is on the right side. But can be on the other side or central, it doesn’t matter. It must be fixed. Graduation must be balanced according to the natural parting. If the client does not wear a fixed parting, if she prefers to direct her hair first to one and then to the other side or to direct her hair backwards along the central parting and preserve the balance, we must build a combination. We have to construct the expanded shape or the silhouette from the vertical section to the face, copying the roundness of the bone structure. After we lower the shape, we will construct round geometry of the line in order to achieve even dynamics to the right and to the left. Then we won’t be bound to the natural parting. We build this combination when we want to expand the shape a little further, make it more dynamic and give it more volume.

If we don’t want to be bound to the natural parting and if your client wants a design without a parting because she likes to wear her hair on both sides.

Let’s start the construction of square graduation. We locate the natural parting, central or side parting. We build the whole design according to it. Then we separate the central section right in the middle of the head. Then we separate sections just like for the line along the cheekbone slope. We start with the line technique. The cutting angle is for the line. We will work with maximum length. The range of lengths for this design is from the seventh cervical vertebra to the edge of hair growth. The fingers incline for the line. The cutting angle is parallel to the section. There is no elevation. From bottom to top. We turn and make an upward cutting angle from the center in parallel with the section.


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