You can see on the diagram that the construction of the shape starts with separation of the main central section that divides the shape in two equal parts. Then we separate the first additional section that starts from the edge of hair growth. Its incline corresponds to the cheekbone slope. We cut the first section according to line technique. The red arrow shows the over-direction of the line into the expanded shape. The green pecked line shows the expanded shape. The next additional section is parallel to the previous one. The red arrow again shows the over-direction into the expanded shape. It is shown with the green pecked line. The third section is also cut according to line technique. The additional section is parallel to the previous one. The section is directed towards the green pecked line, it forms a line.
Then we separate the next section in parallel with the previous one and we proceed in this way. Each section is parallel to the previous one. The rest of the sections are directed into the expanded shape of the line but with elevation. The elevation depends on the texture. If the hair is thick, the elevation can be quite high, up to 90 degrees. If the hair density is not enough to control the outline, the elevation can be minimal. We can also see the range of lengths. The length ranges from the edge of hair growth to the seventh cervical vertebra. The length also depends on the texture. The thinner is the hair, the shorter is the design. The thicker is the hair, the longer is the design. The hair can reach the seventh neck vertebra. The design should not be longer than the seventh vertebra. It won’t be functional. The weight will drop. That is why we don’t build square graduation on long hair.
I am going to show you how to build square graduation. Practicing this design, we learn to control the positioning of planar surfaces with elevation. At different lengths, for example at maximum length, we draw the line to the bone structure with the planar surface, and it curves inward. The design becomes functional. It will be easy to style. If your client wants a uniform length, and their hair is very thick, we won’t be able to construct a functional design with just line technique. In this case we will apply elevation and with its help as well as with the help of planar surfaces we will control the inward turning of the line.
When working with shorter length we can widen the planar surface and in this way change the design as we like. So we are going to construct a planar surface in a particular place, build a flat silhouette and control the distance between the shape and the bone structure. Square graduation teaches us to do it with the help of elevation and cutting angle. We will watch the geometry of the planar surface from above. Now you are going to see how it is done.