Triangular line is built starting from the main section. The back of the head is divided in two equal parts by the black-colored section. Then we separate additional blue-colored sections starting from the lowest one. The incline of the section corresponds to the cheekbone slope. It is a slight incline from the horizon. The next section is parallel to the previous one. We continue with parallel sections as far as the top of the ear. After that we start to turn the sections pivotally. Section after section we move to the vertical section that will be shown on the side view. It divides hair growing to the side and to the back of the head. The red arrows show the over-direction. The hair is combed and directed into the expanded shape. The cutting angle is directed into the expanded shape, which is shown in green pecked line. The red pecked arrows show the over-direction into the expanded shape. You can see at the side view that all types of lines are constructed in the same way.
Round, triangular and square line. We separate additional sections shown in blue color, following the slope of the cheekbone and the jaw. It is a slight incline from the horizon. We move upwards as far as the pivoting rotation. The pivoting rotation goes through the vertical section shown in black color. It divides hair growing to the side and to the back of the head. The sections turn pivotally from this point above the ear top. The red arrow shows the over-direction into the expanded shape. The sections must be directed according to the red pecked arrows – down into the expanded shape. The expanded shape is shown with the green pecked line. Triangular geometry on the side is built according to the orienting points of the bone structure. The orienting points on the bone structure are shown with red lines. It is the cheekbone slope. The jaw slope can also be the orienting point. You can also use the corner of the lips and the earlobe as the orienting points for triangular geometry. However the cheekbone is the main one. It has the same incline in all bone structures. If you separate sections according to the cheekbone slope, you won’t make a mistake. The green pecked line shows how we prolong the cutting angle into the triangular geometry.
You have seen how square layers are built. Now I will show you how the weight of round layers shifts on medium length. The length range is the same as in square layers on medium length. It is from the edge of hair growth to the seventh vertebra cervical. The hair texture is crucial here. If the hair is very thin and you want to build a bulky shape and give volume to the hair, than you should choose this shape and work in maximum proximity to the edge of hair growth. If the hair is thick and porous and you want volume, you should go a bit lower of the outline. As you can see on the mannequin. Just slightly lower, don’t go too much down. If you descend too much the weight will drop and won’t be controlled. The whole idea of the shape will be lost.
Now you have to prepare for the construction of the shape. While building the shape you will work with damp hair. First you should study the diagram of round layers on medium length. Only after studying the diagram and understanding the expanded shape you can apply the design on your client’s bone structure.
First thing you must do is build a line. To learn how to build a line you should watch a corresponding video lesson. After choosing a geometry – it can be round, square or triangular – you can start to build round layers on medium length.