Matrix 9 - Combinations

Round graduation with disconnection



We construct the shape with diagonal sections starting from the temple. The sections are almost vertical with a slight incline from the face as the design has round dynamics. The blue parallel lines show the additional sections. The red arrows show the over-direction back to the previous section towards the face. With such parallel sections we move from the face to the center of the back of the head first on one and then on the other side. The red pecked arrows show the over-direction into the expanded shape and the elevation level. The green pecked line shows the expanded shape of the graduation. It is flat. The green pecked line on the face shows the range of lengths for this design. The length ranges from the earlobe to the middle of the ear. You can also see the black-colored vertical section that separates the sides from the back of the head. The crown is constructed with pivoting sections. The pivoting rotation goes from the point of natural hair growth pattern.

The additional sections are shown in blue color. The red arrow shows the over-direction back to the previous section relatively to the center. The side view also shows the internal parietal area. It is constructed with diagonal sections. The incline is to the face. The sections are almost vertical, the incline is very slight. The over-direction depends on the length of the fringe. If you want a long fringe, direct the sections towards the vertical section. If you want a short fringe, direct the sections back to the previous ones. The back view shows how we constructed the external part of the shape with blue additional sections. From the face to the back of the head on one and on the other side. The sections are diagonal. The red arrows show the over-direction back to the previous section relatively to the face. The shape is built from the face to the back of the head because it is round.

Video Tutorial


Round graduation with disconnection in its pure form is built with a natural parting. We separate it at the end, when we connect the external and the internal parts of the shape. First we will separate incurved sections. We will move from the frontal cavities to the occipital bone with incurved sections. First we will remove the internal part of the shape and construct a flat silhouette on the external part of the shape. The silhouette must be maximally flat. This is its incline. You mustn’t make a stoop incline. It must look like this in all flat graduations. This is a flat type of graduation, so the weight is concentrated higher of the horizontal section. The horizontal section is responsible for combination of techniques. Lower of the horizontal section the cutting angle is flat, it supports the weight of the shape. If the cutting angle was round or curved, the design would sag and fall in. After building the graduation lower of the horizontal section we can combine it with layers and construct the expanded shape into round geometry on the internal part of the shape.

We start with the right side. The section is curved. It must be curved inwards. We move from the frontal cavity to the center of the back of the head. This is our main section. And then we separate another section. It is diagonal. It doesn’t incline very far from the vertical. The expanded shape begins from the temple. It moves to the back of the head and narrows toward its center. The geometry of the shape is read from above. Each section is directed back to the previous one and into round geometry. The elevation is slightly lower than 90 degrees. This design is flat, we cannot lower the elevation or raise it to 90 degrees. The technique of layers starts from 90 degrees. Thus we won’t be able to construct a graduation. The design will move the outlines. It will be flabby and fuzzy, it won’t be graphic. That’s why you must control the elevation and the cutting angle.


©2020 Anna Eshwood Ltd