Shake is a combination of round graduation with round layers. The shape is built from the face to the back of the head because it is round and this dynamics is correct. The first section shown in black color is the guide section. We separate it from the face and construct into a line with minimal elevation. The additional sections are shown in blue color. The sections are almost parallel to each other. The elevation starts gradually. The red arrows show the over-direction back to the previous section. The red pecked arrows show the over-direction into the expanded shape and the elevation level. You can see on the side view that the elevation starts from minimal angle and gradually reaches 180 degrees. It goes from the face and from the back of the head. The green pecked line shows the expanded shape. It has round geometry in this design. The diagram also shows the range of lengths for the design. The length ranges from the middle of the neck to the seventh neck vertebra. The orienting points are the tip of the nose and the corner of the jaw or the corner of the eye and the earlobe.
We construct the shape with additional blue-colored sections on one and on the other side. We advise you to build one side completely, moving from the face to the back of the head, and only then to go over to the other side. The red dot in the center marks the connection of the sides. The red arrow shows the over-direction back to the previous section relatively to the face. This shape is built with the natural parting. If we build it with a side parting, technically there will be no balance as shown in the green pecked line. If we build it with the central parting, the shape will be technically well-balanced. The green pecked line shows the expanded shape. The red pecked arrows show the over-direction into the expanded shape and the elevation level. The elevation starts from zero and gradually reaches 180 degrees. The green pecked lines on the neck show the length range. The maximum length is the seventh neck vertebra. If you build the design on curly hair you can go slightly lower as the shape will shrink when it is dry. We do not build the design below this level. The minimal length is the middle of the neck.
We are going to talk about the combination of line, graduation and layers techniques in round geometry. We will work with maximum length for graduation. Graduation doesn’t work with longer hair. We will construct the design with a side parting. It is more difficult with regard to the construction of balance. That is why you have to study carefully how to work with a side parting. We will start with the round line. Then we will raise the elevation to the level of graduation. And after that we will build the round silhouette of layers with higher elevation. We will construct a sphere around the client’s head, drawing it closer to the back of the head and expanding it towards the face.
To construct the line we need to separate two sections on the right and the left side. They must be inclined backward from the natural parting. The orienting points for round geometry are the corner of the nose and the corner of the jaw. They never change.
We always follow them when building round geometry. The perpendicular to the section shows you the place to stand. The comb must point at the centert of your body. Place your legs accordingly. We cut out the round geometry following the orienting points of the bone structure. The cutting angle must mirror them. The hair is directed perpendicularly to the section into the place of its natural falling. We start to move towards the back of the head. The cutting angle is flat. The comb mirrors the previous cutting angle like a ruler. We prolong the it downward. In such a way we reach the vertical section. We have to visualise it. The round cutting angle must stop opposite it. The geometry doesn’t matter, every cutting angle of the line must stop there. After the vertical section the cutting angle must follow the planar surface of the back of the head. We have constructed the first section. Now we must build the balance. We always start with the wide side, otherwise it would be more difficult. We are guided by the length that we have constructed at the face.