Matrix 9 - Combinations

Round graduation Round layers



We start the construction from the side. We separate diagonal sections that move from the temple towards the center of the back of the head. The incline of the sections corresponds the the incline of the cheekbone, but the other way round. The incline is slight, the sections are almost horizontal. We move from the edge of hair growth, which is the external part, up to the internal part of the shape. Each section is parallel to the previous one. The red arrow shows the elevation. The elevation of each section has the same angle. You can see this angle by the red pecked arrows that show the over-direction towards the silhouette. The silhouette of the back of the head is shown with the green pecked line. The green pecked line also shows the expanded shape. If you direct the hair perpendicularly to the head you will see the silhouette of the expanded shape.

It is shown in green pecked line. The red pecked arrow in the facial area shows the over-direction into the expanded shape. The green pecked line at the bottom of the diagram shows the length range. The shortest possible length for round graduation is the area of the earlobe. The maximum length is the corner of the nose. We are building a round design. The orienting points on the bone structure are the corner of the nose and the corner of the jaw. The diagram shows how the right side joins the left side in the center. The inclined sections move from the temple to the back of the head first on one, and then on the other side. The inclined sections are separated upwards and join in the middle. The red pecked arrows show the over-direction into the expanded shape and the elevation. The green pecked line shows the silhouette and the expanded shape.

Video Tutorial


Round graduation in combination with round layers. Why do we combine graduation with round layers? Graduation is a design in which hair is directed back from the face. The weight is located at a certain level. In order to remove the weight and make the design more dynamic, while preserving the graphical external part of the shape, we need to build a combination. First we have to construct round graduation. Hair will move from the face to the back of the head. Then we will separate the vertical section and build layers with pivoting sections as far as the frontal cavities. The hair at the face will move freely to the right and to the left. This design can be worn without a parting.

How do we construct round graduation? From the very beginning we direct the hair into the sections that we will separate during the construction of the design. The cutting angle starts from the temple. The expanded shape is just like on the top view of the diagram. The design widens at the temple and narrows toward the back of the head. The narrowing must be gradual and soft, so that when you lower the sections, you can see how the weight follows the cheekbone slope. If the weight drops down or lies horizontally, it means that you make the cutting angle too closely to the head or expand it too much. You can achieve this harmony only with a lot of practice. The weight must always follow the cheekbone slope.


©2020 Anna Eshwood Ltd