This design is combined with round layers, that is why it is considered to be a combination. It is a combination of two techniques and two geometries. We start the construction with the central natural parting. If the client prefers a side parting, you should not build this combination. You can build a proper triangular geometry with graduation technique. We are building a combination with round layers that is why we must separate the natural parting that will be shown on the top view. They we separate the main black-colored sections. They are curved sections that are separated towards the occipital-bone at the same level on both sides. After that we separate the main central section on the back of the head shown in black color. It is marked with a red dot. It is the guide section that determines the silhouette of the shape.
From the main section we separate additional blue-colored sections with the same incline. Each section is parallel to the previous one. We move towards the ear first on the left side, and then on the right side. The red arrows show the over-direction. We direct each section back to the previous one and into the triangular geometry. We construct a planar surface first on the left, then on the right side. In such a way we construct triangular geometry at the back of the head. This diagram also shows the construction of the internal part of the shape. We separate two main black-colored sections on the internal part of the shape. The red dot marks the main central section that later will join with the external part of the shape when we prolong the cutting angle upward. After that we start to turn the additional blue-colored sections pivotally. We move toward the face first on one, and then on the other side. The red arrows show the over-direction back to the previous section. The green pecked line shows the expanded shape, the red pecked lines show the elevation and the over-direction. The expeanded shape is rounded and connected with layers.
Less extreme triangular graduation combined with round layers. It is a dynamic design. It is very similar to the graduated bob. It’s used when we want the length to be shorter than the level of the jaw. As you remember triangular graduation is constrcucted at the level of the jaw, following its slope. If we want to go higher and draw the silhouette closer to the bone structure, if we want more texture and the silhouette to embrace the bone structure and move around it smoothly, than we should build a less extreme shape. It is also triangular and it has the same silhouette as the triangular graduation, only the planar surfaces are constructed close to the head and the dynamics is stronger. This design is usually combined with round layers, that is why we are going to show you the construction of this combination. There will be more movement of hair. The fringe will be worn both on the left and on the right side. This design is more dynamic. It is more functional, it can be worn on both sides.
First we separate curved sections from the frontal cavities. They must be curved inwards and not the other way around. The roundness of the head is our orienting point. If the bone structure is too wide, then we will separate the sections a little higher. If the bone structure is too narrow, then we will separate them a bit lower. Thus we separate the external and the internal parts of the shape, which will help us to construct them in balance with each other and to control the flat cutting angle. If you try to work with flat cutting angles along the whole length, you probably won’t be able to do it in a precise manner. The silhouette will be distorted. That is why we remove the internal part of the shape and first work with the external part. We will construct a flat silhouette in two planar surfaces. After that we will prolong the planar surfaces up to the internal part of the shape. Every time we construct a flat silhouette, the elevation is slightly lower than 90 degrees.