Men Design - Fundamental

Basic graduated layers without a parting

Video Tutorial


Today we will build a fundamental men’s design that is called basic graduated layers. We can construct it with and without a parting. On this model, I will build the design without a parting. We will start from the side and construct a graduated silhouette. Then we will work with the internal part of the shape.

Before beginning the construction we have to locate the corners of the shape. Every bone structure is unique and we have to locate the corners accordingly. Find the corner and determine its exact location according to the diagonal. The same on the back of the head. We locate the corners and separate flat sections. The sections mustn’t curve, it is important that they are flat. Now we can start to build a graduated shape on the sides.

We are going to construct the first planar surface on the side. We will move as far as the corner. We must locate it on the bone structure. We stop when we reach it. Or we can go a bit further, directing the sections from the corner to the planar surface. If we don’t reach the corner, the proportions will shrink. The sections on the side are a bit inclined, thus your body position is comfortable. You can work with vertical sections, but when working with graduation it is extremely difficult to build a correct silhouette if you don’t stand comfortably. That’s why we incline the sections a little bit. Besides we tilt the client’s head forward so that we don’t have to bend over. Then we make an expanded graduated cutting angle. We must watch the weight shift. We direct the sections into the planar surface.


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